These yards are really more of a convenience than an actual improvement. They have been found very useful for the purpose for which they are erected.
These yards were erected for really a dual purpose, firstly to do away with the old timber "breaks" erected by the drovers tor the purpose of camping sheep in their charge. As is well known to all stock Inspectors, these breaks were a menace, as they provided excellent rabbit harbour, and rabbit destruction could not be successfully carried out whilst these old breaks were in existence. Secondly, for providing a safe holding place for travelling stock at night.
After some experience it was found that ringlock sheep fencing made a more secure yard than plain wires, as it was found almost impossible to confine crossbred lambs in a yard made of plain wire spaced at the ordinary widths; ringlock fence will keep them within bounds.
Fencing Posts.
Best hardwood available: Timber to be cut 6ft. long, split into sizes 8in. x 4in. or 7in. x 5in. at small end. If hardwood is not available, then the best offering is used.
Strainer and Gate Posts.
Hardwood: 7 feet long, 12in. minimum at small end.
Stays.
Hardwood: round 6in. at small end, 10ft. long.
Bed Logs for Gateways.
Hardwood: round 12in. in diameter, squared on one side.
Gates. 12ft. Iron.
Netting.
Ringlock or other good brands sheep fence; 6 strand. 36in. wide.
Plain Wire.
No. 10, white or black, soft or hard.
Barb.
No. 12 gauge, galvanised.
Tie Wire.
Galvanised, light.
Site.
Select for a site, high ground and without watercourses; some growing timber on the area is an advantage for shade.
Size.
This is determined by the use of the route, generally 5O x 5O yds. with a division in the centre, sometimes larger.
Fencing Posts.
Sunk 2ft. in ground 4ft. out, round side turned in towards enclosure, to be straight along line and level on top. In the filling in of the post it must be rammed well for the whole depth.
Straining and Gate Posts.
To be sunk 3ft. In ground, well rammed during the filling in.
Staying of Posts.
This is most important. The corner posts must be well stayed. Mortice a hole about 10in. from top of strainer and along line of fence, trim small end of stay to fit into mortice hole or notch, bring stay back along fencing line, let into ground about 1ft, then drive a wedge-shaped piece of hardwood well into the ground at the end of stay to keep same in position.
Boring of Posts.
Posts are better bored after erection. They are to be bored from front to back through centre of timber, commencing from bottom, first hole 4in. from ground, second 18in. above, third 18in, above second, with the top hole 2in. from top of post.
Wiring.
Three No. 10 gauge plain galvanised, as body wires with 1 No. 12 galvanised barb on top. These wires are not run through the bore holes, but are held in position by a staple of No. 10 soft wire that is passed over the fence wire, both ends then passed through the bore hole, then turned back on each side of post and tied to the fence wire. Start straining wires from bottom.
Netting. “Ringlock” or other good brands sheep fence is then hung from the top to the bottom body wires, tied in position by No. 18 gauge tie wire—the first, third and sixth strand wires of this netting are included in the staple tie of the body wires.
Gates.
Single 12ft. iron gates are used. These gates are swung from the outside centre of the gate post, and rest on the outside of the opposite gate post. This method of swinging from the outside of the post is adopted, as the gate then swings back along the line of fence; by doing so it does not interfere with stock approaching the entrance from either side.
Panels.
Panels 10in. long are found to be very suitable.
Division Fence.
This is constructed in a similar manner to outside fence; 12ft. gateway is left and blocked by a “bogan gate."